IMPORTANT LINKS TO REAL ESTATE RELATED
WEB SITES AND WEB SITES OF LOCAL
INTEREST, PLUS SOME CURRENT
ARTICLES ON REAL ESTATE!
"Click On" the links to the web sites below to find useful
information on Real Estate and Humboldt County / Northern
California. If you have a web site or know of a web site that
would be of interest, please email it to me.
(If you find a "bad link", please email it to me.)
The Real Estate articles follow the links,
scroll down to find them!
They are changed frequently!
GO EXPLORE! REAL ESTATE RELATED WEB SITES 
Humboldt County MLS, Current Local Real Estate listings
WWW.955MLS.Com Realtor.Com, Nationwide Real Estate Listings
http://www.realtor.com/
Real Estate Glossary, First American
http://www.firstam.com/glossary.cfm?id=118 Humboldt Board of Realtors
http://www.harealtors.com/ California Association of Realtors
http://www.car.org/ National Association of Realtors
http://www.realtor.org/ California Department of Real Estate
http://www.dre.ca.gov/ USDA Home Loan Program Information
http://eligibility.sc.egov.usda.gov/eligibility/welcomeAction.do "News Flash" from California Department of Real Estate
Current information on the California Real Estate Industry
http://www.dre.ca.gov/gen_news_flash.html California Real Estate Licensee Check
(Is your agent licensed?)
http://www2.dre.ca.gov/PublicASP/pplinfo.asp Colorado, Department of Real Estate
http://www.dora.state.co.us/real-estate/ Colorado Real Estate Licensee Check
(Is your agent licensed?)
http://eservices.psiexams.com/crec/search.jsp California Contractors State Licensing Board
Lots of good information
http://www.cslb.ca.gov/Consumers/ Humboldt Real Estate Economics
Dr. Erick Eshker
Humboldt State University
http://www.humboldt.edu/~indexhum/realestate/
Beacon Economics and
Dr. Christopher Thornberg, PhD
WWW.BeaconEcon.Com
Any interesting lecture by Dr. Thornberg
http://www.youtube.com/user/harleenharji#p/a/f/2/ILW8OolM0Lo National Fire Protection Association
The National Electrical Code
Register and you can access the code on line!
http://www.nfpa.org/index.asp
Federal Trade Commission
Selling Your Home? Tips for Selecting a
Real Estate Professional
http://www.ftc.gov/bc/edu/pubs/consumer/homes/zrea01.shtm Houmboldt County Building Department
http://co.humboldt.ca.us/planning/building/ Humboldt County GIS (take a look around)
http://co.humboldt.ca.us/planning/maps/ City of Arcata, Community Development
http://www.cityofarcata.org/departments/community-development City of Eureka, Building Department
http://www.cityofarcata.org/departments/community-development Real Tour Vision, Real Estate Virtual Tours, Demos
http://www.realtourvision.com/tourdemos.php ARELLO
(National Real Estate Licensee Verification)
http://arello.com/ REALogy (The world of Real Estate)
http://www.realogy.com/about/rfg.cfm
LOOKING FOR A MORTGAGE? Jean Loosemore, Bank of America
http://mortgage.bankofamerica.com/jeanmloosemore CONSIDERING A 1031 TAX DEFFERED EXCHANGES? First American Exchange
http://firstexchange.com/ US National 1031 Exchange
http://www.usnational1031.com/metroportal/aboutus.aspx LOCAL INTEREST WEB SITES ETC.
Humboldt State University
http://www.humboldt.edu/ College of the Redwoods
http://www.redwoods.edu/ The Humboldt County Historical Society
(If you have an interest in the history of this area, go here!) http://www.humboldthistory.org/index.html
A $30.00 membership includes quarterly issues of the
Humboldt Historian, discounts in their bookstore and
more! Eureka Heritage Society
http://www.eurekaheritage.org/ The Kegg Organ at Christ Episcopal Church
http://www.keggorgan.com/ProjectDetail.cfm?yJNum=154 The Organ Concert Series
http://christchurcheureka.org/concerts.html The American Guild of Organist
http://www.agohq.org/home.html Professional Ski Instructors of America-Rocky Mountain
http://www.psia-rm.org/ Professional Ski Instructors of America
http://www.thesnowpros.org/ 
Interesting current articles on Real Estate (Do remember that the following are opinion)  .
The Rescue 3 reasons home prices are heading lower By Les Christie, staff writerJanuary 1, 2010: 6:22 PM ET
NEW YORK (CNNMoney.com) -- After four months of gains, home prices flattened in October. Worse yet, industry insiders think that they'll soon start to fall. Prices have risen more than 3% since May, according to S&P/Case-Shiller. But most forecasts predict price declines in 2010, with possible losses ranging from anywhere from 3% on up. Fiserv Lending Solutions, a financial analytics firm, forecasts that prices will fall in all but 39 of the 381 markets it covers, with an average drop of 11.3%. "We've seen recent price stabilization because of low mortgage interest rates and the impact of the first-time homebuyers tax credit," said Pat Newport of IHS Global Research. "But there are really good reasons to think prices will now start going down." There are three main reasons for the reversal: a coming flood of foreclosures, rising interest rates and the eventual end of the tax credits. More foreclosures For Gus Faucher, the director of macroeconomics for Moody's Economy.com, the huge number of foreclosures that remain in the pipeline is the big problem. Moody's upped its estimate of defaults recently because of shortcomings of the government-led mortgage modification programs. Trial workouts are not being made permanent and completed modifications are redefaulting at high rates. "There are going to be fewer [successful] modifications than we thought," said Faucher. Even so, he added, much of the price decline has already occurred and Moody's forecast is for only another 8% drop. The worst-hit markets will be the ones suffering the most foreclosures, places like Arizona, California, Florida and Nevada. (See 7 tips for buying foreclosures) Resetting option ARMs (adjustable rate mortgages) will also aggravate the foreclosure problem. These mortgages allow borrowers to pick their own payments, which can be so low they don't even cover the interest. Balances swell. For many of the more than 350,000 option-ARM borrowers, it's time to pay the piper. Their loans will change into fully amortizing mortgages that will carry much higher monthly payments. A very large percentage of these homeowners will default, according to Shari Olefson, author of "Foreclosure Nation: Mortgaging the American Dream." "We've still only seen the tip of the foreclosure iceberg," she said. She also predicts more strategic defaults, people deliberately walking away from even fixed-rate mortgages as the value of their homes dips well below the amount they owe. Olefson's forecast is for price declines of 5% to 15%, depending on the area, with a national median price drop of about 10% for 2010. Rising interest rates Also affecting prices will be higher interest rates. Some analysts, according to Newport, think rates for a 30-year mortgage will pass 6% next year as the government curtails housing market support. The Federal Reserve has helped keep rates low through purchases of mortgage-backed securities. But that program is winding down and will end in March. "The government is throwing everything at the market but the kitchen sink," said Peter Schiff, president of Euro pacific Capital. "It can't prop up housing markets forever." Schiff is among the bigger bears. Though he gave no specific prediction, he thinks prices -- already down 29% from the peak -- are only halfway to the bottom. The end of the tax credit As a tool for supporting housing markets and prices, the tax credit for homebuyers is a two-edged sword. It reduces taxes dollar-for-dollar by up to $8,000 for new homebuyers and $6,500 for buyers who already own a home and should support home prices. But it ends at the end of April. Many buyers will push their deals forward to get in before the deadline and then demand for homes could sink afterward. One of the few bulls out there is NAR, whose chief economist, Lawrence Yun, is counting on the tax credit to provide temporary support for housing markets until the economy recovers enough to start fueling sales. He predicts price improvement in 2010 of more than 3%. "The headwind we face is rising mortgage interest rates," Yun said, "but the compensating factors will be the homebuyers tax credit in the first half of the year and increased job creation in the second half." Top things to know (about buying a home). 1. Don't buy if you can't stay put. If you can't commit to remaining in one place for at least a few years, then owning is probably not for you, at least not yet. With the transaction costs of buying and selling a home, you may end up losing money if you sell any sooner - even in a rising market. When prices are falling, it's an even worse proposition. 2. Start by shoring up your credit. Since you most likely will need to get a mortgage to buy a house, you must make sure your credit history is as clean as possible. A few months before you start house hunting, get copies of your credit report. Make sure the facts are correct, and fix any problems you discover. 3. Aim for a home you can really afford. The rule of thumb is that you can buy housing that runs about two-and-one-half times your annual salary. But you'll do better to use one of many calculators available online to get a better handle on how your income, debts, and expenses affect what you can afford. 4. If you can't put down the usual 20 percent, you may still qualify for a loan. There are a variety of public and private lenders who, if you qualify, offer low-interest mortgages that require a down payment as small as 3 percent of the purchase price. 5. Buy in a district with good schools. In most areas, this advice applies even if you don't have school-age children. Reason: When it comes time to sell, you'll learn that strong school districts are a top priority for many home buyers, thus helping to boost property values. 6. Get professional help. Even though the Internet gives buyers unprecedented access to home listings, most new buyers (and many more experienced ones) are better off using a professional agent. Look for an exclusive buyer agent, if possible, who will have your interests at heart and can help you with strategies during the bidding process. 7. Choose carefully between points and rate. When picking a mortgage, you usually have the option of paying additional points -- a portion of the interest that you pay at closing -- in exchange for a lower interest rate. If you stay in the house for a long time -- say three to five years or more -- it's usually a better deal to take the points. The lower interest rate will save you more in the long run. 8. Before house hunting, get pre-approved. Getting pre-approved will you save yourself the grief of looking at houses you can't afford and put you in a better position to make a serious offer when you do find the right house. Not to be confused with pre-qualification, which is based on a cursory review of your finances, pre-approval from a lender is based on your actual income, debt and credit history. 9. Do your homework before bidding. Your opening bid should be based on the sales trend of similar homes in the neighborhood. So before making it, consider sales of similar homes in the last three months. If homes have recently sold at 5 percent less than the asking price, you should make a bid that's about eight to 10 percent lower than what the seller is asking. 10. Hire a home inspector. Sure, your lender will require a home appraisal anyway. But that's just the bank's way of determining whether the house is worth the price you've agreed to pay. Separately, you should hire your own home inspector, preferably an engineer with experience in doing home surveys in the area where you are buying. His or her job will be to point out potential problems that could require costly repairs down the road.
The hunt (for a home)! Now it's time to hit the pavement, or the Web, in search of a home Your first step here is to figure out what city or neighborhood you want to live in. (Remember the old saw about "location, location, location.") For overall demographics and data on metropolitan areas, you can visit a city site like CNNMoney.com's annual Best Places to Live list. For more detailed neighborhood information, check out sites like Yahoo! Real Estate, Trulia.com, Zillow.com or NeighborhoodScout for comprehensive school and demographic information on a number of communities. Look for signs of economic vitality: a mixture of young families and older couples, low unemployment and good incomes. Pay special attention to districts with good schools (high teacher-student ratios and graduation rates are among the hallmarks), even if you don't have school-age children. When it comes time to sell, you'll find that a strong school system is a major advantage in helping your home retain or gain value. Try also to get an idea about the real estate market in the area. For example, if homes are selling close to or even above the asking price, that shows the area is desirable. Try Homegain.com, which is free, or Dataquick.com, which is available only to paid subscribers, to check out recent home sales. Your real estate agent may also be able to show you listings. Incidentally, if you have the flexibility, consider doing your house hunt in the off-season -- meaning, generally, the colder months of the year. You'll have less competition and sellers may be more willing to negotiate. Next, take your search to real estate sites like Realtor.com or Yahoo Real Estate, which let you search for property that fit your requirements. Be wary of choosing search criteria that are too restrictive. For example, select a price range 10 percent above and 10 percent below your true range. Add a 10-mile cushion to the location you specify. If you see a house you are interested in, save it, print it, add it to your bookmark or favorites list, and take note of the MLS code; your agent will want that code to arrange to show you the home in person. If you're a first-time buyer, pay special attention to condominiums and cooperatives, or co-ops. Condos generally sell for 15 percent to 20 percent less than the cost of comparable detached homes in the same neighborhood, so you get much more space for your money. What's the difference between the two? In a condo, each owner has absolute ownership of his own unit, which may be an apartment or townhouse. Owners pay a monthly fee to maintain shared areas like the lobby, the pool, or the laundry room. The chief financial risk to a condo owner is that the common charges can rise, or, in the event of a major problem such as a roof repair or boiler replacement, the condo board can assess fees to cover expensive repairs. It's a good idea, when considering a condo, to find out how much the common charge has changed over the past five years, and whether there have been major assessments during that time. Also ask what percentage of the residents actually own their units as opposed to just renting them (many condos include both). A complex with lots of renters has fewer owners who care about the upkeep, and it may be harder to get a loan on such a property. A co-op is a rarer animal limited to major metropolitan areas, especially New York City. Essentially, the complex is run by a corporation where each owner is a shareholder. In other words, a co-op owner is a partner in a building, rather than an outright owner of his or her specific unit within that building. The monthly maintenance fees are generally higher than those of a condo because they include property taxes (condo owners pay their own separately, but prices tend to be lower. Their chief downside is that the co-op board usually has to approve new owners and may discourage you from renting your unit if you move out without selling. As with a condo, check on the group's financial health, whether shareholders have been hit with special assessments recently, and whether the unit includes many renters. When you actually start touring homes, bring a notebook and a digital camera to help you remember details. Your real estate agent should supply you with a description of each house and the lot it sits on, the property tax assessment, the asking price, and sometimes a diagram of the rooms. Your camera and notebook are there to record other details, ranging from the cost of heating to the view out the rear window. One note: Don't automatically reject a house just because it doesn't measure up to your desires, either in features or price. You can always add a deck, for instance, or update a kitchen. Since the asking price is just a starting point for negotiation, you will be making offers and counteroffers as both parties seek an acceptable price.
Getting the money right For most people, buying a house involves a double financial whammy. First you have to assemble a pile of cash for the down payment and closing costs. Then you must convince a bank to lend you an even more staggering sum - generally 80 percent or more of the purchase price. So your first step, even before you start the actual hunt for a property, should be to get your financial house in order. Start with your credit
Credit reports are kept by the three major credit agencies, Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion. Among other things, they show whether you are habitually late with payments and whether you have run into serious credit problems in the past. A credit score is a number calculated from a formula created by Fair Isaac based on the information in your credit report. You have three different credit scores, one for each of your credit reports. A low credit score may hurt your chances for getting the best interest rate, or getting financing at all. So get a copy of your reports and know your credit scores. Try Fair Isaac's MyFICO.com, which charges $15.95 each for reports and scores from Equifax and TransUnion. Experian scores and reports can be accessed from experian.com and cost $15. Errors are not uncommon. If you find any, you must contact the agencies directly to correct them, which can take two or three months to resolve. If the report is accurate but shows past problems, be prepared to explain them to a loan officer.
Know what you can afford
Next, you need to determine how much house you can afford. You can start with one of the Web's many calculators. For a more accurate figure, ask to be pre-approved by a lender, who will look at your income, debt and credit to determine the kind of loan that's in your league. The rule of thumb here is to aim for a home that costs about two-and-a-half times your gross annual salary. If you have significant credit card debt or other financial obligations like alimony or even an expensive hobby, then you may need to set your sights lower. Another rule of thumb: All your monthly home payments should not exceed 36 percent of your gross monthly income. The size of your down payment will also determine how much you can afford.
Line up cash If you haven't already, you'll need to come up with cash for your down payment and closing costs. Lenders like to see 20 percent of the home's price as a down payment. If you can put down more than that, the lender may be willing to approve a larger loan. If you have less, you'll need to find loans that can accommodate you.
Various private and public agencies - including Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac, the Federal Housing Administration, and the Department of Veterans Affairs - provide low down payment mortgages through banks and mortgage companies. If you qualify, it's possible to pay as little as 3 percent up front. For more, check out their Web sites at Fanniemae.com or Freddiemac.com. A warning: With a down payment under 20 percent, you will probably wind up having to pay for private mortgage insurance, a safety net protecting the bank in case you fail to make payments. PMI adds about 0.5 percent of the total loan amount to your mortgage payments for the year. So if you finance $200,000, your PMI will cost $1,000 annually. Once you've considered the down payment, make sure you've got enough to cover fees and closing costs. These may include the appraisal fee, loan fees, attorney's fees, inspection fees, and the cost of a title search. They can easily add up to more than $10,000 - and often run to 5 percent of the mortgage amount. If your available cash doesn't cover your needs, you have several options. First-time homebuyers can withdraw up to $10,000 without penalty from an Individual Retirement Account, if you have one, though you must pay taxes on the amount. You can also receive a cash gift of up to $13,000 a year (the limit for 2009) from each of your parents without triggering a gift tax. Gift taxes are paid by the donor, not the recipient. (In fact, if your and your spouse's parents are both well-heeled, they can give you a total of $104,000 in one year - $13,000 from each of the four parents to each of you.) Check on whether your employer can help; some big companies will chip in on the down payment or help you get a low-interest loan from selected lenders. You can also tap a 401(k) or similar retirement plan for a loan from yourself.
The hunt
Now it's time to hit the pavement, or the Web, in search of a home
Your first step here is to figure out what city or neighborhood you want to live in. (Remember the old saw about "location, location, location.") For overall demographics and data on metropolitan areas, you can visit a city site like CNNMoney.com's annual Best Places to Live list. For more detailed neighborhood information, check out sites like Yahoo! Real Estate, Trulia.com, Zillow.com or NeighborhoodScout for comprehensive school and demographic information on a number of communities. Look for signs of economic vitality: a mixture of young families and older couples, low unemployment and good incomes. Pay special attention to districts with good schools (high teacher-student ratios and graduation rates are among the hallmarks), even if you don't have school-age children. When it comes time to sell, you'll find that a strong school system is a major advantage in helping your home retain or gain value. Try also to get an idea about the real estate market in the area. For example, if homes are selling close to or even above the asking price, that shows the area is desirable. Try Homegain.com, which is free, or Dataquick.com, which is available only to paid subscribers, to check out recent home sales.
Your real estate agent may also be able to show you listings. Incidentally, if you have the flexibility, consider doing your house hunt in the off-season -- meaning, generally, the colder months of the year. You'll have less competition and sellers may be more willing to negotiate. Next, take your search to real estate sites like Realtor.com or Yahoo Real Estate, which let you search for property that fit your requirements. Be wary of choosing search criteria that are too restrictive. For example, select a price range 10 percent above and 10 percent below your true range. Add a 10-mile cushion to the location you specify. If you see a house you are interested in, save it, print it, add it to your bookmark or favorites list, and take note of the MLS code; your agent will want that code to arrange to show you the home in person. If you're a first-time buyer, pay special attention to condominiums and cooperatives, or co-ops. Condos generally sell for 15 percent to 20 percent less than the cost of comparable detached homes in the same neighborhood, so you get much more space for your money. What's the difference between the two? In a condo, each owner has absolute ownership of his own unit, which may be an apartment or townhouse. Owners pay a monthly fee to maintain shared areas like the lobby, the pool, or the laundry room. The chief financial risk to a condo owner is that the common charges can rise, or, in the event of a major problem such as a roof repair or boiler replacement, the condo board can assess fees to cover expensive repairs. It's a good idea, when considering a condo, to find out how much the common charge has changed over the past five years, and whether there have been major assessments during that time. Also ask what percentage of the residents actually own their units as opposed to just renting them (many condos include both). A complex with lots of renters has fewer owners who care about the upkeep, and it may be harder to get a loan on such a property. A co-op is a rarer animal limited to major metropolitan areas, especially New York City. Essentially, the complex is run by a corporation where each owner is a shareholder. In other words, a co-op owner is a partner in a building, rather than an outright owner of his or her specific unit within that building. The monthly maintenance fees are generally higher than those of a condo because they include property taxes (condo owners pay their own separately, but prices tend to be lower. Their chief downside is that the co-op board usually has to approve new owners and may discourage you from renting your unit if you move out without selling. As with a condo, check on the group's financial health, whether shareholders have been hit with special assessments recently, and whether the unit includes many renters. When you actually start touring homes, bring a notebook and a digital camera to help you remember details. Your real estate agent should supply you with a description of each house and the lot it sits on, the property tax assessment, the asking price, and sometimes a diagram of the rooms. Your camera and notebook are there to record other details, ranging from the cost of heating to the view out the rear window. One note: Don't automatically reject a house just because it doesn't measure up to your desires, either in features or price. You can always add a deck, for instance, or update a kitchen. Since the asking price is just a starting point for negotiation, you will be making offers and counteroffers as both parties seek an acceptable price.
Closing the deal Here's where you exercise your haggling muscles. Once you find the house you want, you need to move quickly to make your bid. If you're working with a buyer's broker, then get advice from him or her on an initial offer. If you're working with a seller's agent, devise the strategy yourself. Try to line up data on at least three houses that have sold recently in the neighborhood. Calculate the difference between the original list price and the final price of the homes sold. If the average difference is, say, 5 percent below the asking price, then you know you can make an offer 8 percent to 10 percent below, leaving yourself a little room to negotiate. If you really want the house, don't lowball. The seller may give up in disgust. Another factor to consider in determining your bid is whether the trend in recent home sales is up or down over the past year. For instance, if houses a year ago were selling at list, and recent ones are going at 3 percent below, then you might want to sharpen your pencil for your opening bid to just 5 to 8 percent below list. There's no foolproof system for negotiating a fair price. Occasionally it's best to deal directly with the seller yourself. More often it's better to work exclusively through intermediaries. In general, don't let the other side begin to believe you are negotiating in bad faith or being deceptive -- any deal you eventually reach has to involve trust on both sides. Be creative about finding ways to satisfy the seller's needs. For instance, ask if the seller would throw in kitchen and laundry appliances if you meet his price -- or take them away in exchange for a lower price. Remember, too, that your leverage depends on the pace of the market. In a slow market, you've got muscle; in a hot market, you may have none at all. Once you reach a mutually acceptable price, the seller's agent will draw up an offer to purchase that includes an estimated closing date (usually 45 to 60 days from acceptance of the offer). Have your lawyer or buyers agent review this document to make sure the deal is contingent upon:
1. your obtaining a mortgage; 2. a home inspection that shows no significant defects (make sure you're clear on the definition of "significant"); 3. a guarantee that you may conduct a walk-through inspection 24 hours before closing. This last clause allows you to check the home after the sellers have moved out so that you have time to negotiate payment for repairs, just in case the movers cause any damage, or that big living room sofa was hiding a hole in the floor. You also need to make a good-faith deposit -- usually 1 percent to 10 percent of the purchase price -- that should be deposited into an escrow account. The seller will receive this money after the deal has closed. If the deal falls through, you will get the money back only if you or the home failed any of the contingency clauses. Now call your mortgage broker or lender and move quickly to agree on terms, if you have not already done so. This is when you decide whether to go with the fixed rate or adjustable rate mortgage and whether to pay points (see "Picking a team"). Expect to pay $50 to $75 for a credit check at this point, and another $150, on average to $300 for an appraisal of the home. Most other fees will be due at the closing. If you don't already have one, look into taking out a homeowner's insurance policy, too. Ask for recommendations from friends, your lawyer or your real estate agent. Most lenders require that you have homeowner's insurance in place before they'll approve your loan. In addition to the appraisal that the mortgage lender will make of your home, you should hire your own home inspector. Again, ask for referrals, or check with the American Society of Home Inspectors, a trade group. An inspection costs about $300, on average, and up to $1,000 for a big job and takes two hours or more. Ask to be present during the inspection, because you will learn a lot about your house, including its overall condition, construction materials, wiring, and heating. If the inspector turns up major problems, like a roof that needs to be replaced, then ask your lawyer or agent to discuss it with the seller. You will either want the seller to fix the problem before you move in, or deduct the cost of the repair from the final price. If the seller won't agree to either remedy you may decide to walk away from the deal, which you can do without penalty if you have that contingency written into the contract. About two days before the actual closing, you will receive a final HUD Settlement Statement from your lender that lists all the charges you can expect to pay at closing. Review it carefully. It will include things like the cost of title insurance that protects you and the lender from any claims someone may make regarding ownership of your property. The cost of title insurance varies greatly from state to state but usually comes in at less than 1 percent (in Iowa, as little as 0.1 percent plus a fixed fee) of the home's price. The lender might also require you to establish an escrow account, which it can tap if you fall behind on your mortgage or property tax payments. Lenders can require deposits of up to two months' worth of payments. After all this rigmarole, the actual closing is often somewhat anticlimactic, though perhaps still nerve-racking. It's a ritual affair, with customs that differ by region. Your lawyer or real estate agent can brief you on the particulars.
The three-figure kitchen makeover
(Money Magazine) -- Living with an undersize, outdated kitchen? If so, a sledgehammer may feel like the only solution. But these days you're probably not up for spending the $50,000 or more -- maybe much more -- it would cost to demolish the space and build a new state-of-the-art room from scratch.
Fortunately you can make your existing kitchen work better with products that aim to solve nagging problems like dim lighting, cramped space, and overflowing cabinets. Even better, most of these clever solutions cost no more than a few hundred dollars.
Not enough workspace
If your kitchen is skimpy on counter-tops, create extra space for chopping, kneading, mixing, and assembling your family meals with a sturdy counter-height worktable (about $200 to $1,500 at johnboos.com, roomandboard.com, or ikea.com). Just leave yourself room to maneuver -- at least 36 inches of floor space on each side of the table, 42 inches where there's an appliance, says Mark Karas, manager of Adams Kitchens in Stoneham, Mass. Not enough square footage? Get a table with locking wheels (such as the $1,400 Quovis at dwr.com) and roll it against a wall when it's not in use. Another trick: Free up existing counter space by mounting small appliances under the cabinets. Black & Decker's stainless-steel Space-maker appliances hang easily ($30 to $90 each at bdspacemaker.com). If you're a java gourmand, check out Brewmatic's upscale coffeemakers ($500 to $600 at poshportage.com), which hang from the cabinet with a large thermos-style carafe resting on the countertop below. Since microwaves are giant space hogs, consider installing a built-in microwave-and-vent combo over the stove ($200 to $1,200 at bestbuy.com, plus installation). And while you're at it, trade that countertop spice rack for an adjustable wood one that mounts to the inside of an upper-cabinet door ($90 at rev-a-shelf.com).
No place to eat
Long for a modern breakfast bar? The most space-efficient way to add an eating area to a small kitchen is with a prefab breakfast bar island ($400 to $2,000 at allkitchencarts.com, surlatable.com, and ekitchenislands.com). It can seat from two to four family members and often includes storage compartments or stool-stowing space underneath. Keep in mind you'll need 48 inches of clearance -- 54 inches if there's an adjacent appliance -- on any side with seating. For an even cheaper option, create a simple breakfast bar by hanging an 18-inch-deep shelf along a wall 40 inches above the floor, using drop-leaf support hardware ($20 at rockler.com) so that you can fold the top down when it's not in use. For any breakfast bar, order stools with seats about 10 inches lower than the eating surface. And opt for seats without backs if you want to slide them completely under the bar when no one is sitting on them.
Jam-packed cabinets
Start by removing everything, tossing what you don't use, and re-thinking where you locate what you do. Like items should be grouped together, and the more often you use something, the more centrally located it should be. "Your baking stuff should go in one spot, your cooking stuff in another, your coffee stuff in another," says Jeri Dansky, a professional organizer in Half Moon Bay, Calif. Then, add in storage devices to maximize accessibility. Among Dansky's favorite products: chrome roll-out drawers that fit into deep base cabinets ($60 to $80 at stacksandstacks.com) and adjustable under-sink shelves that fit around the pipes ($15 at organizeit.com). If you have a severe cabinet shortage, consider the $130 plate rack at plowhearth.com, which will let you mount your plates on the wall, or a hanging pot rack like the ones at kitchensource.com ($50 to $800).
Dim lighting
A single ceiling fixture provides no direct task lighting for food prep, pot washing, bill paying, algebra homework, late-night snacking, or any of the other activities we do in the kitchen. The easiest way to brighten the countertops is to hang wireless Rite-Lite LED light bars ($20 each at amazon.com) into the recessed bottoms of the upper cabinets -- but they'll churn through AAA batteries so fast you'll be buying coppertops by the gross. A better solution is Priori's xenon system ($200 to $500 at budgetlighting.com or lighting-universe.com), which also hides under the cabinets; it strings together like Christmas-tree lights and simply plugs into a backsplash outlet. Adding electrical circuits will have to wait for the sledgehammer job.
Pick the right pro at the right price
To keep a lid on home-improvement costs, hire only the expertise you really need.
By Josh Garskof, Money Magazine contributing writer
(Money Magazine) -- For anything from a small upgrade to a major remodeling job, perhaps the most important decision you'll make is whom to hire. You'll seek out a top-notch worker with a stellar reputation, of course, but first you'll have to decide what kind of expert you're looking for. That choice can have a dramatic effect on the cost of your project. Whether you're wondering if you really need an architect to design your new den or debating whether a handyman can handle your wiring job, here's how to figure out which pro to call.
Specialist or handyman? The difference: Electricians, plumbers, and other specialists have the know-how to tackle any project in their area of expertise, but they cost at least $75 to $100 an hour. A handyman doesn't have that depth of experience but has the advantage of breadth: He'll not only hang your ceiling fan but repaint the ceiling too. You'll typically pay just $25 to $50 an hour for an independent handyman. Franchises such as MrHandyman.com and HouseDoctors.com will charge you more -- $50 to $100 an hour -- but are likelier to insure and bond their crews. (Both handymen and specialists may tack on an extra fee for small jobs.) How to decide: For jobs that involve inside-the-wall changes to electricity, plumbing, or heating or cooling systems, go with a licensed specialist. General contractor or several tradesmen? The difference: A general contractor will handle a renovation, addition, or remodeling job from soup to nuts, bringing in whatever subcontractors he needs -- plumber, tiler, roofer, and so on. In exchange he'll mark up the subs' fees by 10% to 20%. Or you could hire those same contractors yourself and save thousands. How to decide: If you need only one or two subs -- perhaps a plumber and a granite guy for those new counters -- and you're a veteran home improver, go for it on your own. Otherwise, a GC will spare you the hassle of getting referrals and doing due diligence on a host of pros as well as the delays and cost overruns you'll encounter by juggling multiple tradesmen yourself.
Architect or contractor? The difference: When a contractor designs a project, he looks for efficient, cost-effective ways to achieve your goals: A family room addition is likely to be a boxy appendage off the kitchen, for example. An architect is trained to design the new space around your family's lifestyle and to weave it seamlessly into the existing house. But his fees will also add at least 5% to 10% to your project cost -- and his design will probably cost quite a bit more to build than a general contractor's. How to decide:
Bring in an architect for any project that involves a significant alteration to your floor plan or exterior or will entail spending more than 10% of your home's value. You'll stand a better chance of coming away with a design that adds charm and value to your house.
Buyer's market for small
home improvements Rooms looking drab? These four micro-improvements offer an oversize bang for the buck.
By Josh Garskof, Money Magazine contributing writer
(Money Magazine) -- Your big remodeling plans may be on hold for a while, but that doesn't mean you have to miss out on this buyer's market for home improvements. Just go small.
Contractors have dropped their prices as much as 40% during the past year, and many top-notch workmen who once scoffed at anything less than six-figure projects are now happy to take on quick, simple jobs. Here are four interior design upgrades that will turn a plain-Jane room into a distinctive, upscale space for less than $1,000, including installation.
Beadboard the bathroom Beadboard wainscot is in vogue right now, but it's actually a traditional look. The wood paneling, which alternates vertical strips with a half-rounded "bead," comes in large sheets that a carpenter can install in a few hours. "It instantly makes any bathroom cottagey and cute," says Downers Grove, Ill., architect Cinda Lester. Ask for a chunky "cap molding" (a small shelf-like topper) instead of standard flat trim to ensure that the wainscot looks like an authentic feature rather than an afterthought. Cost: $500 to $800 for a three-foot- high painted wainscot in an averagesize bathroom. Pep up the light fixtures Cheap "builder-grade" lights are to well-crafted ones what econobox cars are to luxury European models. But you can get handsome pendant lights and sconces at any specialty supplier or home center. Just don't install them yourself, because the fasteners in the ceiling may not match the screws on the fixture -- and electricity is nothing to toy with if you don't know what you're doing. Cost: $100 to $300 per fixture (plus $50 to $75 for installation), and $150 to $300 if you're adding a new electrical circuit.
Beef up the moldings
Undersize moldings cheapen the look of the home. Hiring a carpenter to replace narrow trim with bulkier woodwork gives the whole place a more upscale feel. No need to spring for ornate hard-wood moldings; simple painted trim is a better fit for a typical house anyway, and as long as it's large (say, six inches wide or better) the impact is dramatic, notes Anaheim contractor Katherine Wu. Cost: $800 to $1,000 for baseboards and window and door casings in an average room. Tile around the fireplace Adding tile is a great way to bring color and personality to your home, as long as you don't put it where it will get torn out in an upcoming renovation. That brick or stone strip between the firebox and the wood mantel is a snap for a tile setter to refinish, and since it's a small area, you can splurge on pricey materials. To find the best deals, visit high-end retailers and ask to see old remnants in the stockroom. You may score posh tiles for a steal.
Cost: $600 to $1,000 to have a tile setter remove the existing masonry and install the new tile of your choice.
Be your own landscaper These dirt-cheap landscaping tricks will spruce up your yard now - and keep it looking good next year too By Josh Garskof, Money Magazine contributing writer
(Money Magazine) -- Summertime, and the living is supposed to be easy. The fish are jumping -- or maybe it's the kids at the pool -- and yard work is the last thing on your mind. But the lawn has brown spots, monochrome greenery has replaced those May flowers, and weeds have overrun the mulch beds. Luckily, you can solve these problems without paying big bucks to a landscaper -- or losing a weekend to a do-it-yourself job. The following simple tricks will beautify your yard now and boost your home's curb appeal -- and value -- for years to come.
Banish the brown We all know we should water regularly through dry spells, but there's another secret to greening up the lawn. Mow it to a height of at least three inches. This enables the grass to retain more moisture by keeping the soil shaded and cooler, which allows the roots to grow deeper, so they can find their own water. In fall, feed the lawn with a fall fertilizer blend (about $40 for a half-acre lot), which will improve the turf's water-seeking abilities next year. Also, thanks to trees getting larger (or being pruned), your sun exposure may have changed. Sprinkle a sun-and-shade seed mix ($5) over problem areas.
Whack your weeds If your mulch beds have turned into weed beds, spray the unwanted plants with Roundup (about $20), which will kill weeds in about 10 days, says Chris Valenti, a Lewes, Del., landscaper and vice president of the National Landscaping Association.
Next spring, head off the problem by using a product that prevents weeds from germinating at all, such as Preen (around $25). Or try a nonchemical solution: Lay red rosin paper (sold in the paint aisle at home centers; $15 for a three-by-140-foot roll) over the planting beds before mulching. Bring in some blooms For a quick fix, plant annuals such as impatiens, verbena, or zinnias, which cost less than $1 each and require digging only tiny holes - or can be potted. To get color that returns year after year, you'll need perennials and shrubs that bloom during the summer ($5 to $30), such as crape myrtle, irises, and hydrangeas. Not sure what blooms late in your climate? Just shop when you want the flowers. "Nurseries tend to stock plants when they're flowering, because that's when they're most appealing," says Valenti. Perk up parched shrubs The best way to rescue wilting, curling, or shrinking foliage is to place a hose over the roots and trickle water onto them for about 45 minutes, says Tulsa landscape architect Clare Ashby. You can automate that process with a soaker hose, a slow-watering device that dribbles out water along its entire span ($15 to $60, depending on length). In spring, lay the hose along the plant beds before you mulch, then attach it to your outdoor spigot with an automatic timer ($20 to $40, depending on whether it's mechanical or digital). You won't have to do a thing next summer - and the living really will be easy.
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